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February 20, 2024

Often overlooked due to its proximity to the more famous neighbors Florence and Pisa, in the collective imagination, Livorno is a city that “doesn’t exist”… and this is actually the best reason to go see it, and the best way to visit it is to immerse yourself in the experience of “living” it.

From a fishing village to a “chosen city” of the Medici, who made it the port of Florence, today Livorno is a must-visit for the curious and attentive traveler.

Exiting the port on the right, along Viale Italia, you can reach the famous Terrazza Mascagni. It is a long path (about 5 kilometers). You can get there with the “LAM BLU” public bus service or by taxi. The pier from the historic center of Livorno is about two kilometers away.

Under the ship, available to cruise passengers, there is a free shuttle that takes you outside the port, about 500 meters from the historic center. Alternatively, some cruise companies offer a paid shuttle that, about every half an hour, takes you right into the city center.

In Livorno, you can comfortably move on foot, especially in the historic center, which is not excessively extensive. If you prefer to avoid walking, the best means of transportation in the city is definitely the bus. The bus company is called LAM, and the lines are designated by different colors. Each line corresponds to a different area of the city. Bus tickets cost €1.50 and are valid for 70 minutes. Single tickets can be purchased directly on the bus or at authorized retailers in the city.

Now that we’ve understood that reaching the beauties of Livorno is quite simple, let’s see what the city really has to offer.

You can’t leave the port area without visiting the Old Fortress, the first bastion built by the Medici around 1530.

The fortress consists of three bastions: Ampolletta facing the city, Canaviglia towards the port, and Capitana towards the northeast. The circular tower that towers over the fortress is the Mastio di Matilda, a 30-meter high circular tower named after Matilda of Canossa. From various points of the Old Fortress, you can enjoy wonderful views of the city, its canals, and the sea. Open every day from 9 am to 8 pm (closed on Mondays). Admission is free.

The Mascagni Terrace

We mentioned the Mascagni Terrace above, certainly the most famous and recognizable place in the city, dedicated to the Livornese composer. 

 

If you’ve ever seen an image of Livorno, it’s certain that it depicted the checkerboard pavement of this magnificent terrace by the sea. There, you will find a music kiosk in the shape of a temple, destroyed during World War II but later rebuilt identically.

Its pavement consists of 34,000 black and white tiles, and the balustrade is made up of 4,000 columns! You can take a beautiful walk by the sea, enjoying the moment, breathing in the sea breeze, and taking beautiful photos.

Near the Mascagni Terrace, we find the city’s aquarium. It is certainly not as large as the one in Genoa, but it has its charm and could be an interesting attraction for young cruise passengers as well. The entrance is open every day from 10 am to 6 pm. Ticket cost: adults €14, children €9.

The historic center

There are several beauties in the historic center of Livorno. We could start with the “Venezia Nuova” district. Its name derives from the fact that, just like Venice, this district is built around canals that bring the sea right into the city.

Today, the district is less “seafaring” and more touristy, with shops and venues overlooking the canals. Venezia Nuova is discovered with a pleasant walk where, suddenly, magnificent views capture the traveler’s gaze, leaving them enchanted.

Along the way, you come across the “Bottini dell’Olio,” old oil warehouses, now transformed into a museum and municipal library.

Nearby is the Church of Santa Caterina with a magnificent Coronation of the Virgin by Giorgio Vasari.

Continuing on Via Borra, the main street of the district, you can admire the most beautiful palaces in the city, such as Palazzo delle Colonne di Marmo and Palazzo Huigens.

Walking through the Venezia Nuova district, you can see the Fortezza Nuova, so named to distinguish it from the Old Fortress located at the port. It is a closed pentagon-shaped construction protected by a defensive wall and a system of moats that has now become a beautiful public park.

Another must-visit stop is the Central Market of Livorno, known as the “Mercato delle Vettovaglie.”

Built at the end of the 1800s, it is one of the largest markets in Europe! This market is located inside a magnificent structure with a bright steel and glass roof. It is 100 meters long and 26 meters wide. The sales counters are open every day from 5:30 am to 3 pm.

 

On the side exit of the market, you will find the “Torteria da Gagarin,” a small shop outside of which there is always a long line to taste the “torta” (chickpea cake), considered by many as the best in Livorno.

Continuing our walk, we reach the Duomo (Cathedral). Dedicated to San Francesco, it was built from 1594 to 1606 and was almost destroyed during World War II. Inside, there is a “Christ Crowned with Thorns” by Beato Angelico, which alone is worth the visit to the church.

Starting from the Cathedral and taking Via Grande towards the sea, we arrive at the Monument of the Quattro Mori (Four Moors).

The official name is “Monument to Ferdinando I,” but it is famous as the monument of the Four Moors. Over time, the figure of Ferdinando has been overshadowed by the sculptural beauty of the Moors. According to legend, it brings good luck to find the exact point where all four Moors’ noses are visible simultaneously.

To complete the visit, if you want to see the city from a different perspective, a boat ride along the “Fossi Medicei” is recommended.

The moats were dug starting from 1577 as a formidable defense to protect the emerging Livorno. The characteristic name “Fossi,” by which they have always been called, derives from the fact that they were born as large military moats to isolate the city and its fortresses. The route is explained, step by step, by the audio guide provided once on board. It is a tour that passes through the old Venice and the central districts of the city. Boarding is located in front of the Monument to the Four Moors. The boat tour lasts about an hour, and the ticket costs €15.

If your ship calls at Livorno in the future, give this city a chance and put yourself in the position to “live” it… you won’t regret it! 

Don’t miss further information, updates, and advice on cruise ports on Cruising Journal! 

Gina Daga

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