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November 16, 2019

Cruising Journal, the international portal for cruise ship reviews, takes you to Italy’s Amalfi Coast!

Already booked your 2020 cruise? Or still searching for the right destination? For those of you who haven’t been before, and even those who have, but simply want more of La Dolce Vita, Italy must surely be somewhere at the top of the list. Of course, Rome is to-die-for, but there’s much more to Italy, like the string of picturesque, historic port towns and quaint fishing villages that make up the stunning Amalfi Coast.

Most cruises that take in ports in southwestern Italy, including Naples, promise at least a day’s excursion to the main towns of the Amalfi Coast. That means that you’ll have eight hours to explore the charming resort towns of Salerno, Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento and the surrounding beauty spots, of which there are many.  This area is the perfect place for ships to either dock at Salerno, which can take mega-ships, or weigh anchor in the stunning bay ready for excursions to the must-see destinations of Capri, Naples, Pompeii and Herculaneum.

Your first look at this spectacular part of Italy’s coastline will be unforgettable. It’s characterised by rugged, grass-edged cliffs that tumble dramatically into the foaming Tyrrhenian Sea below. Framed by the Lattari mountain range that dominates the skyline along this part of the coast, the towns and fishing villages cluster around the sides a series of steep, verdant mountain gorges that end at the beach. From the sea, the spectacle of clusters of pastel-coloured houses clinging to the sides of the gorges and flowing down to the sea is breathtaking.

The Amalfi coast has been a prized vacation spot for thousands of years; wealthy Roman aristocrats came here to build their airy ‘villae maritimae’ among the hills, grand mansions accessible only from the sea. Today, more modern villas dot the hills, set among vineyards and groves of olive, orange and lemon trees that scent the mountain breezes. Many pleasant paths lace the hillsides, beckoning walkers who enjoy taking in the wildlife and stunning coastal scenery.

A wine tasting session at one of the many hillside villa wineries is usually a popular item on and ship’s excursion itinerary and can be oversubscribed; if you fancy going your own way instead, for a reasonable price you can chose from a wide variety of locally-run wine and food-tasting tours. Lasting from a couple of hours to half a day, you will get a real taste of the place.

The relaxed pace of life here and the balmy Med climate – usually between 27⁰C and 30⁰C during the summer months – tempts one to just sit back and enjoy. However, if you want to explore, each of these towns has something unique to discover. Beach bunnies, history buffs, culture-vultures, food and wine lovers and nature lovers are all well served here.

A word of warning for those with mobility problems; the roads and paths in the towns and hills above can be very steep and rugged. Positano poses special challenges, as it relies on a series of steep stairways to link the lower and upper parts of the town. If you struggle with walking in these circumstances, stick to the more accessible areas. Check out the going on any tours you book, too, in case of nasty surprises. However, the various beaches, marinas, promenades, shops and cafes will keep you entertained, and many historic sites can still be enjoyed.

Getting about

Linking the towns and villages is the historic, winding road that hugs the entire Amalfi Coast from the port city of Salerno to cliff top Sorrento. Slightly less that 50km long, it winds its way through the hills, offering stunning views of the ocean and dramatic coastal scenery. It makes moving between spots easy, but it gets very busy and there can be serious delays because of heavy traffic. To move about within and between the towns and villages there’s plenty of public transport, with taxis, buses and trams are available and will ferry you to your chosen sites at reasonable prices. For the best way to explore this lovely stretch of Italy’s coast – read on!

Explore by boat

Forget the traffic  ̶̶   boats are the best way to explore here. In summer, the bay is constantly busy with craft of all sorts, from ferries, speed boats and simple dinghies, to glamorous yachts and huge cruise liners. Readily available boats trips and tours make it fast, easy and fun to move between locations and see the sights. For example, ferries run regularly across the bay, with trips from Amalfi to Positano taking around 20 minutes, Positano to Capri about 35 minutes, or Salerno to Positano 1 hour 15 minutes. Many excellent locally run tours regularly ferry visitors to local landmarks, such as the beguiling Blue and Green grottoes. Or you can head to Capri, take in the scenery, soak up the artistic milieu and wander amongst its famous swanky shops, boutiques and eateries.

Go beachside

The Amalfi towns are also major resorts, some with fine-sand beaches and all the facilities you could ask for. Families, sun-worshippers, sailors, swimmers and water-sports enthusiasts are all well catered for along this stretch of coast.

The finest beaches are probably Positano’s Spaggia Grande and Spaggia di Fornillo, both of which are easily accessible on foot. These are perfect of you want to soak up the sun, you can rent a sun-lounger with umbrella, kick back and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere. Kids will love it. Both beaches offer great facilities and there’s a huge choice of beachside cafes and eateries. Plus, you can book beach tours to the equally lovely nearby beaches of La Porta, Arienzo and San Pietro Laurito, which are only accessible from the sea.

Go shopping!

Those craving retail therapy will love exploring the winding lanes of these charming, historic towns. The ancient houses are colourful, picturesque and distinctively Italian. The streets and alleyways buzz with activity; there are markets, galleries, attractive shops and boutiques selling anything from the region’s speciality lemon liqueur, Limoncello, olives and preserved fruit, to locally made ceramics, linen and leather goods, designer clothing, jewellery and maritime-influenced artwork, to name but a few.

As a rough guide, shops here tend to open from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., then close for siesta, reopening at around 3.30 p.m. to 7.30 p.m. Very few shops open on Sundays.

Eat, drink and be merry

This is Italy – food and wine are celebrated, plentiful and delicious. Your main problem will be deciding which of the many excellent eateries to try!  There’s really nothing like sampling real Italian pizza and gelato (ice-cream), but fresh seafood is the staple here. It comes in many delicious forms, often as part of a pasta dish. The local tomatoes are flavoursome, especially teamed with local speciality buffalo mozzarella and fresh basil.

Fabulous food, local wines and amazing sea views can be enjoyed together in many spots along the coast. Children are welcome in most local restaurants, but if you fancy somewhere a little more intimate to sip your Limonicello, head to the hills to find one of the many sophisticated, eateries hidden away in peaceful spots overlooking the bay.

A wine tasting session at one of the many hillside villa wineries is usually a popular item on and ship’s excursion itinerary and can be oversubscribed; if you fancy going your own way instead, for a reasonable price you can chose from a wide variety of locally-run wine and food-tasting tours. Lasting from a couple of hours to half a day, you will get a real taste of the place.

Sights worth visiting  in and around Salerno, Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento

 

Interior Cathedral of San Matteo, Salerno

Founded in as a Roman colony in 973, Salerno is the capital of the region of the same name. With a population of around 133,000, occupation here dates back about 900 years to the ancient Etruscans. Today, Salerno is a popular resort town. History lovers are in their element here; there are many fascinating museums to visit and entry fees are low. The Diocesan Museum, attached to the Cathedral of San Matteo showcases the region’s uniquely interesting religious architecture and history.

Another venue popular with visitors is Salerno’s famous Medical School, the earliest in Europe. The School flourished during the 12th 13th centuries, drawing students from all over the world. Alternatively, immerse yourself in the town’s history at the Museo Archeologico Provinciale di Salerno. Based within the St. Benedetto Church complex, the museum is extensive and packed with fascinating archaeological finds from the area dating from neolithic times to the late Roman Empire.

Amalfi

This ancient Maritime Republic remains a busy port today, providing stunning views for those arriving from the sea. Amalfi is a bustling port town, with around 7.000 residents. The Romans settled here, and the foundation of this ancient Maritime Republic dates back to the 9th century. Historically, Amalfi was an important centre for Mediterranean trade, vying with Pisa, Genoa and Venice. Steeped in maritime history, the town was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

The heart of Amalfi is the spectacular Duomo, the Arab-Sicilian Cathedral of  Sant’Andrea Apostolo. A great example of the Baroque style of architecture, this imposing building was rebuilt in the 1700s. The resting place of the Saint’s bones, it draws visitors from all over the world to admire its history and architecture.  The Cathedral is also home to the famous Cloister of Paradise, which is not to be missed. Verdant and tranquil, with many water features, statues and resting places, this beautiful spot is the perfect place for contemplation.

One of Amalfi’s central historic attractions is the ancient Arsenal of the Maritime Republic. Once the town’s shipbuilding, ship repair and storage centre, it’s now a museum full of fascinating historical artifacts that reflect the town’s rich maritime past, as well as an exhibition and performance space.

Positano

This sophisticated resort, actually a large village, offers views of mighty Vesuvius and the Sirenhese Islands out in the Bay of Naples. It has a resident population of about 4,000 souls today, but attracts thousands of visitors each year. Although small, historically Positano played a central role in the region’s great maritime power. Its steep little streets and alleyways, ornamented by Moorish-style architecture, are a delight to explore on foot. However, as mentioned, the steep stairs linking lower and upper parts can be challenging for those with mobility issues and tiring for small ones. Its heart is a wonderland of interesting shops, galleries and boutiques, where all the traditional local craft items can be purchased as perfect take-home gifts.

Worth a visit is the Church of Santa Maria Assunta; its striking dome shines with the region’s speciality colourful ceramic tiles, which adorn many of the religious buildings hereabouts.

Sorrento

With a resident population of almost 17,000,  Sorrento is one of the coast’s principal towns and, arguably, the best place to visit if time in the area is limited. Overlooking the bay and offering spectacular views of Naples and Vesuvius, today its well-known for its antique shops. You’ll find plenty of smaller shops selling the distinctive ceramic wares produced nearby ready to take home. In addition to the area’s usual wares, also on sale are exquisite examples of Sorrento’s locally produced specialities  ̶  lacework and marquetry.

For sight-seeing with a historical theme, tour the Correale de Terranova Museum for around 8 euros. The airy galleries are packed with fascinating historic Italian and Renaissance artwork, furniture, ceramics, even clocks. Most visitors make a point of exploring the museum’s wonderful gardens, ending their tour with a spectacular cliff-side view of Sorrento Bay.

Particularly rich architectural and historic pickings are to be had at the 11th century Basilica di Sant’Antonio. It stands exactly where the saint’s remains previously rested in an extraordinary 9th century oratory. Patron of the city of Sorrento, he now occupies the ancient crypt. The building’s fabric incorporates original Roman stones and columns, and many valuable artworks and treasures can be viewed.

The Church of St. Francis of Assisi is also well worth a visit, with its visually impressive Arab-style portico and beautiful 14th century cloisters.

Who is going to take you there in 2020?

Obviously, whichever part of the Amalfi Coast you end up exploring and how long you spend doing it varies according to who you decide to sail with and the itinerary you chose. If you’re shopping around, take a look at Royal Caribbean, Cunard, Azamara for istance, who are among those offering Amalfi coast stopovers as part of more extensive tours.

Wherever you land, the stunning Amalfi coast offers so much to see and do and comes highly recommended as a cruise destination well worth visiting. When you get back  ̶  don’t forget to share by uploading your experience to Cruising Journal!

Alison Mary Barnett

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