---

March 16, 2023

When it comes to naming a typical German cruise operator, most people refer to Aida Cruises. With 12 ships carrying between 1,200 and 5,400 passengers each, the Rostock-based company, part of the American Carnival Corporation, indeed boasts a large and diverse fleet.

But what is it like to cruise with Aida? Cruising Journal embarked on the AIDADIVA for a 7-day Baltic cruise.

As so many of Aida’s summer cruises, the one I’m about to embark starts in Warnemünde, the picturesque coast-side outpost of Rostock which is conveniently accessible by both road and rail. I’m onboard together with my grown-up son with whom I share an inside cabin (no. 4344) down on deck 4. The cabin is amazingly spacious and features shelves without doors which makes unpacking easy. Coloured in cheerful orange and yellow colours, the decoration is a welcome break from today’s abundance of “nordic“ grey, black and brown tones.

AIDADIVA was built in the mid-2000s when the latter trend was still a few years away and when the Aida Cruises ships were still known in Germany as “Clubschiffe“ (club vessels), imitating the popular style of Mediterranean beach club resorts.

All you can eat

Overlooking Rostock’s sea channel with its busy ferry traffic to Scandinavia, the two of us have our first lunch in the “Weite Welt” restaurant on deck 10, one of seven restaurants on board, three of which are large buffet outlets. In focussing on buffet options, Aida Cruises ever since its start in 1996 breaks away from most of its competitors, enabling its guests to dine in a more relaxed surrounding, but still offering a great variety of food.

At least this is my impression on that first day onboard. The selection of food options is large indeed, all of them are well seasoned, and unlike those strange months when strict anti-Covid rules applied, self-service has returned, salt and pepper are disposable at each table as is Aida’s famous “cutlery carousel“. Furthermore, Aida includes all non-alcoholic drinks as well as beer and table wine in the ticket price, so it’s basically ‘all you can eat/drink’ with the ”German branch of Costa Cruises“ if that is what you’ re looking for with your cruise. This very policy also leads to the complete and welcome absence of waitresses and waiters trying to sell you beverage packages at every possible or impossible opportunity.

Upon the departure of the AIDADIVA in the evening, nearly all of Warnemünde’s fleet of excursion vessels hover around our ship to see us off. One might think that this was the first or last time the ship would ever depart from the port, but it’s just the familiarity and fondness the people of Rostock and Warnemünde have developed for “their“ company in the 26 years that have passed since the first Aida ship (the recently sold AIDACARA) started the Aida story off.

After reaching the open sea, we retreat to the “Aida Bar“ and “Aida Lounge“ on deck 10 forward. In that prime location onboard, one would expect a lot of passengers and, inevitably, noise, but on the contrary: Both spaces prove to be rather reclusive, allowing for a quiet drink and some chatter. The Aida Lounge with its pink sofas and splendid view forward even has a small library attached and quite astonishingly serves as some kind of card room where families and couples regularly play games. One cannot praise Aida high enough for not having turned this lounge into another posh bar where easy listening music foremost causes potential guests to turn away and look for a different spot to spend the evening hours undisturbed.

For dinner no. 1 onboard the AIDADIVA, my son and I turn to the “Bella Vista” restaurant on deck 11. With no real “formal“ dinner option available (apart from the “Buffalo Steakhouse“), there is no need to dress up for dinner, adding to a very easy-going onboard atmosphere. (However, long trousers are mandatory – a rule that is enforced at each respective restaurant’s entrance.) There are also no fixed seats, so you’re not only welcome, but outright required to occupy any free seat wherever one is available (which can be tricky for families travelling with two or more children).

But just like with lunch in the afternoon, I’m impressed. The quality of the buffet food is better than much of what is served in other companies’ vessels a la carte restaurants, and the portion size of course is just as you want it to be. The “Bella Vista“ is loosely Mediterranean-themed, and although it’s all buffet-style, don’t expect fast food or crossover kitchen. All dishes are marked with a sign that explains its ingredients and country of origin, so you can basically go on a culinary “world cruise“ onboard – Aida changes its culinary motto not only from day to day, but also from restaurant to restaurant.

Back at my table, the wine is perfectly tempered and the waiters are on high alert to refill whenever your glass risks of running empty. Full marks on that first day of the cruise what the restaurants and service onboard concerns.

Pool disco and laser show

Up on the pool deck (deck 12), Aida celebrates embarkation day with the first (one of many a) open air party. Not that the pools themselves or the weather would encourage passengers to swim or bath until well past 10 p.m. But after more than two years full of Covid-19 restrictions, renunciations and lockdowns, the summer of 2022 at last feels like the first in a post-pandemic era – and onboard the Aida ships it’s going to be celebrated accordingly.

The thing is you need to appreciate (or at least have come to tolerate) what is called “Techno Schlager“, heavily computerized versions of German-language hits that remain mostly (and justifiably) unknown outside of German “Dorfdiskos“ (village discotheques). These songs are not even everyone’s taste on dry land, but seem to suit Aida’s main clientele perfectly. The pool deck party, which comes along with a laser show, feels like an explosion of senses that transcends all boundaries – be it generation, origin or other. And to allow its guests to fully enjoy the party onboard, the following day, in the best cruise tradition, is a full day at sea.

Lounges and Bars

The best way to start such a day is to sleep long (until 8 a.m. in my case) and have a leisurely (which means extensive) breakfast. In typical German fashion, freshly baked rolls are available and unlike other ships you don’t have to search for butter or margarine at the opposite end of the restaurant, but find it just next to where it logically belongs. The same also goes for others items of the buffets, so the ways are conveniently short. Aida also offers a full tea bar that leaves no flavour to be desired and fresh juices as well.

During the fore- and afternoon, my son and I explore the AIDADIVA and what she has to offer. One of Aida’s trademarks is the “Theatrium“, a combination of theatre and atrium where during the day rehearsals take place for what in the evening hours turns into a show or performance. Which means that there’s always something going on there, only the “wow“ factor varies, depending on the time of day you stroll by.

A somewhat peculiar invention on Aida’s seven-strong “Sphinx” class (of which AIDADIVA is the lead vessel) is the “Wellness Oase“, the ship’s large spa area situated forward on deck 12 and 14. (There is no deck 13 onboard.) In order to gain access to it, you need to book a form of treatment, otherwise you can only get a glimpse of the area through windows from the outside decks. Judging from the relatively few people spending time there, the whole area appears to be a giant waste of space which on the subsequent “Hyperion“ class (AIDAPRIMA and AIDAPERLA) has turned into a much better utilized indoor pool area called “Beach club“.

The public rooms onboard the AIDADIVA spread over three decks (9, 10 and 11) with all three accommodating a buffet restaurant aft and converging in the middle of the ship into a level of the vessel’s Theatrium. Orientation therefore is simple although the walkways are different on all three decks. On deck 11 for instance, the “Pizzeria Mare“ connects the Bella Vista restaurant aft with the central pool deck, but the pizzeria basically being a restaurant too, one is never sure if it’s okay to use it as a mere passage or not.

Things are different with the “Almhütte“, a Bavarian/Alp-themed restaurant on deck 10 which due to its popularity on other Aida vessels has been incorporated on the older ship as recently as in spring 2022. The venue is very spacious and can be converted into a sports bar when necessary. Nevertheless, it is kind of a “hybrid“ restaurant where the meals are included, but the drinks are not and where your orders are taken at the tables (which actually are wooden benches) although the meals themselves are prepared only a few metres away behind a glass counter.

While the AIDADIVA sails at modest speed towards Stockholm, her passengers are spoilt with splendid summer sunshine outside. And although by no means comparable to the liners of old, the 2007-built ship offers a fair amount of open deck spaces on which to enjoy passages in nicer weather.

Her main sun deck is situated amidships on deck 11 and 12 with the two connected with one another via pyramid stairs. And while deck 11 features a stage for animation, dancing and film screenings, deck 12 has two rows of deckchairs arranged in a half circle around the central skylight dome that illuminates the Theatrium beneath it. There are three albeit small pools spread over these two decks, but the most clever solution probably is a neat little water ditch that runs around the skylight dome – ideal for little toddlers or to just cool off your feet for a moment when you’re not in the mood to frequent the pools themselves.

The outside decks

Passengers on the outside decks have the choice between the Pool Bar (deck 12) and Beach Bar (deck 11) to retreat for a drink, but can also turn aft where the Anytime Bar and Ocean Bar are situated on deck 12. Both the Weite Welt restaurant on deck 10 and the Bella Vista restaurant on deck 11 have an outdoor terrace as well if you seek a quieter place. These terrace-shaped decks at the stern are usually less frequented, and when it gets chilly there are even blankets available in the Anytime Bar to enjoy some fresh sea air without being cold.

But inside as well, Aida provides sofas and comfortable chairs in hidden corners where you normally wouldn’t expect any. Not only is no space wasted that way, but it seems that some clever thought has been given to those passengers who prefer a quiet minute to the hustle and bustle one would normally associate with mass-market cruise operators like Aida.

During a lovely summer’s day like this, the AIDADIVA’s crew also makes multiple use of the ship’s sun and pool decks. In the afternoon, a “Poolgarten“ event is hosted on the pool deck stage – a combination of open-air interviews with some of the ship’s senior officers and live music acts in between. And after sunset, a TV film is shown “under the stars“, again with pool towels and blankets being distributed for the passengers to enjoy the film until its end in the chilly midnight hour. But here again – you need to understand German. All interviews are held in German language only as is the film shown. During the cruise, I hear some Dutch voices here and there but apart from that, AIDADIVA is more or less completely in German hands. Passenger-wise, that is, of course.

Pizza and barbecue

Stockholm greets us with an overcast sky the next morning. Nevertheless, the first passengers are up on deck and in the Aida Lounge at 6 a.m. to watch the scenic passage through the archipelago. Nevertheless, the captain’s public announcement upon arrival at first highlights the free WiFi network in the Swedish capital. An interesting detail hinting at how important it has become for passengers to post images and memories of their cruise experience on social media – and for cruise operators to benefit from that means of (free) publicity.

After twelve hours of sightseeing mainly on Stockholm’s water taxis and archipelago ferries, my son and I opt for the AIDADIVA’s pizzeria upon our return onboard. The concept is well thought – by having passengers order their pizza seated, the venue averts the impression of a mere fast food station. On the other hand, the pizza just as the meals elsewhere onboard is free of charge (only drinks are charged) – a clear difference to Aida’s sister company Costa Crociere where Italy’s national food is only available at a premium.

However, the service even with the pizzeria being only half-full is slow and if the result was really the “Best Pizza at Sea“ (as promoted by Aida), may be questioned. However, Aida Cruises like so many operators in 2022 suffers from a shortage of service staff, a result of Covid-19-related disruptions in work and travel patterns. For the same reason, the AIDADIVA’s only real a la carte restaurant “Rossini“ remains closed for the whole duration of the cruise.

AIDADIVA remains in Stockholm overnight, giving her passengers the rare chance to experience the city until late in the evening and/or for another (half) day the next morning. We grasp the latter opportunity and return back to the ship in time to head straight to that unique spot forward above the bridge on deck 14 which gives an unobstructed view ahead on the ship’s course through the archipelago.

Meanwhile on the sun deck, Aida serves a barbeque by the pool, musically accompanied by the songs of Genesis and Pur, the latter again a band known to German guests only. Apart from that, the daily program comes along refreshingly short – a sign indicating that Aida passengers on a destination-intensive Baltic cruise as the one we’ve booked are well able to entertain and to care for themselves.

To underline this, an amazing lot of them gather along the ship’s railings as long as AIDADIVA sails through the Stockholm archipelago. The passenger load on this cruise is a bit above 2,000, so the ship is more or less fully booked. Her overall capacity at full occupancy is for 2,500, though, taking in account families travelling with children in 3rd and 4th (upper) berths. The latter by the way are especially cared for when it comes to dining: Aida opens the buffet restaurants for families with children at 5:30 p.m. – half an hour prior to the official entry time for the “regular” passengers. Even if there are amazingly few children or teenagers onboard who stand out by loud or wild behaviour, this is a clever move to separate from one another groups of passengers seeking different ways to dine in, necessarily, the same restaurant. One wonders why other mass-market cruise operators haven’t had (or followed) the same policy, too.

Football and beer

The next stop on our Baltic cruise is Visby, the capital of the Swedish island of Gotland and world-famous for its medieval architecture or what remains of it. We share the berth with TUI Cruises’ MEIN SCHIFF 6, and although this means more than 4,000 cruise tourists ashore at once, the picturesque UNESCO world heritage town rarely feels overcrowded. Aida’s competitor even pays an acoustic farewell salute upon our departure which is again being watched by hundreds of passengers along the railings and on the outside decks.

During dinner in the Markt Restaurant on deck 9, the last of AIDADIVA’s three main buffet restaurants, the pattern remains the same as in the two other venues: The choice of meals is wide, and if you don’t stop the waiters from refilling your glasses of beer and wine, you risk being drunk within 30 minutes. My son and I therefore don’t stay longer than necessary and have our “real” dinner in the Almhütte, also to secure a table with a view of the TV screen on the wall.

The burger menu called “Gletscherschmelze” (glacial melt) is nothing but brilliant as is the dessert: flaming apple pie with raisins, vanilla ice and a shot of rum. But the main reason to show up in the Almhütte tonight is Aida’s announcement to live-screen the women’s European football championship semi-finale Germany vs. France which today draws a lot more than the usual crowd seen in this restaurant. During the match, the Almhütte’s service team enjoys a steady stream of beer orders which includes the famous “Maß”, Bavaria’s one-litre jug prominently (but not solely) served during Munich’s Oktoberfest season.

When seeing that the Almhütte gets overcrowded due to high demand during the second half of the match, the latter is also being screened in the Theatrium once the evening show there has ended – a stark contrast again to other operators that stick to their daily routines irrespective of obvious customers demands.

With Germany winning the match in extra time, the AIDADIVA more than anyhow sails into the night as a cruise ship full of happy (German) passengers. Only the singers, dancers and animators had a very calm workday today, all sun deck or other parties and activities onboard being overshadowed by the high demand for what many think Germans like most – football and beer.

German music

AIDADIVA continues her course south along the Swedish Baltic coast during the night to call at Karlskrona the next morning, a port purpose-built in the late 17th century to accommodate Sweden’s navy fleet. Being too large to dock at the city’s historic quays, our vessel anchors in the bay instead and tenders her passengers ashore in her own lifeboats.

Karlskrona is rich both in terms of maritime history and picturesque old-town streets and buildings, so the day ashore passes quickly. And the sun continues to shine too which means that on departure by 5 p.m. the open decks are all but deserted. And although there is no classic division between a first and second restaurant seating onboard, all performances in the vessel’s Theatrium are shown twice each night. This is in order to accommodate as many passengers as possible since not all 2,000 fit into the rows of banks between deck 9 and 11 at once, no matter how close people sit next to one another.

For tonight’s show “Rock – the Concert”, all three levels of the Theatrium are fully packed. The show is great and, to many a guest, could well last longer than 45 minutes. In fact, all shows we have seen so far have been highly entertaining. The only downfall is that in summertime, many shows take place with daylight shining into the Theatrium since neither the side windows of the ship nor the vessel’s sky dome can be darkened. And again, “Rock” means a song mix that includes concessions to Aida’s core German clientele – “Tage wie dieser” by the Toten Hosen, “Winds of Change” by the Scorpions and, most bizarrely, “Hey, wir woll’n die Eisbärn sehn” by the Puhdys. But these are songs everyone can connect with, singing along the choruses happily.

Even the voice of cruise director Malte after five days into the cruise sounds alarmingly hoarse. Nevertheless, the cruise director shows up on the pool deck again at 11 p.m. when another laser show starts tonight’s disco under the stars. The laser show is called “Achterbahn”, and is, inevitably, shown to the song of the same name by the German singer Helene Fischer. Techno versions of songs by Wolfgang Petry, Pur and other German “Schlager” stars follow which for me at least is a sign to finish the day as far away as possible from that – with a book in the deserted and dimly lit Aida Lounge.

Copenhagen and back to Warnemünde

After three Swedish ports in a row, it’s the Danish capital Copenhagen for the last day of the cruise before AIDADIVA returns to Warnemünde tomorrow. Our ship docks behind the SILVER MOON at the city’s long Langelinie quay which lays in convenient proximity to the “Little Mermaid” and “Nyhavn”, two of Copenhagen’s most-visited attractions. Another day ashore passes all too quickly when at 6 p.m. the gangway which is aptly greeting returning passengers with the slogan “Willkommen zuhause” (“Welcome home”) is hauled inboards for the last time.

In keeping in line with another maritime tradition, the last evening onboard gives the crew the chance to show off their talents, be it by dancing, singing or other. On the Aida ships, this is called “Crew meets band” and although some talents are more pronounced than others, every crew member gets a big round of applause before the cruise director introduces the senior officers, department heads and crew members not on duty to the passengers assembled for that occasion on the pool deck once more.

After some more German pop music and a last laser show, the farewell party starts off to the sound of a number of hard rock classics which to some is a welcome break from the “Volksmusik” (traditional German folk music) playing continuously in the Almhütte restaurant and the “Schlager” hits heard on too many occasions elsewhere onboard.

After a full week onboard, we leave the AIDADIVA positively surprised and quite impressed. Although the Aida ships lack the splendour of main dining rooms with fixed sittings and passengers dining in classic evening attire, the meals in the ship’s three buffet restaurants have been fantastic both in terms of diversity and quality. The service onboard has been most attentive and the vessel’s 2,000 passengers were a well-behaved mix of families with children/teenagers and couples in their 40s and 50s.

And despite being smaller than the AIDAPRIMA and AIDANOVA and their sisters, there is plenty to see and do onboard during a 7-day cruise, whether you’re seeking party and animation or a quiet corner to read a book or play games with your travelling companions. The AIDADIVA is a ship in her best years and is decorated in cheerful orange, red, yellow and green colours – be it in the cabins, the bars or her public lounges. The 2007-built vessel is a colourful ship in the best sense.

After more than 25 years in the business, Aida Cruises does a lot of things right and caters perfectly to the needs and demands of its German-speaking core clientele. But it does so only to the latter. Without speaking or understanding German or admiring some German peculiarities (the nudist deck or silent parties, being only two), it may be hard to enjoy this particular product. Alas, in 2019 Aida Cruises alone carried 1,3 million passengers on its ships, a number which impressively proves that Aida knows exactly what “Cruising German style” should be like.

Don’t miss more updates, news and reviews on Cruising Journal with photos, videos and cruises on offer.

Kai Ortel

Comments