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September 1, 2023

The Norwegian mail ship route, also known as Hurtigruten worldwide, got new dynamics in December 2021. In addition to the ships of the Hurtigruten AS shipping company, another shipping company, Havila Capella of Havila Kystruten AS (marketed internationally as Havila Voyages), will start official operation of the regular service between Bergen in the south and Kirkenes in the north of Norway.

Even though the Corona pandemic, the war in Ukraine and, most recently, a severe earthquake in Turkey (where the shipyard is located) led to some delays, the two sister ships Havila Capella and Castor have been in regular service along the Norwegian coast since mid-2022 at the latest. At the end of August, the other two identical ships (Polaris & Pollux) were put into service.

The Havila vessels can accommodate a maximum of 640 passengers in 179 cabins with a combined 468 beds. The discrepancy in the maximum number of passengers is explained by the ferry share of guests who only travel individual sections of the route and do not require a cabin for this. If a car, bicycle or motorcycle is to be transported, 9 parking spaces for vehicles are available on the ship. In addition to the tourist aspect of the journey, the ships on the Hurtigruten play a major role in supplying the small Norwegian coastal towns with freight. In the meantime, mail is no longer transported, but the name of the mail ship route remains as a symbol of the tradition, which celebrates its 130th anniversary in 2023.

Havila Voyages advertises with the claim “More impressions, smaller carbon footprint“. I take a look at this on a trip in the section from Kirkenes to Bodø.

What I experienced in these three days aboard Havila Castor was like a summer fairy tale: Midnight Sun, North Cape & Lofoten. But the travel experiences are another story. I focus here on the ship experience.

Ship interior

As soon as you enter the Havila Castor via the wide hatch, the first wow moment comes. A glass-roofed atrium spanning three decks directs a lot of light into the interior. I would not have expected that from this small ship.  Deck 6 is the heart of the ship. It’s where the restaurants, Havly Café, store and several common areas are located. Natural materials and Scandinavian design create a cozy, authentic and relaxed atmosphere, which immediately increases the feel-good factor. Garish colors have no place in the stylish decor; at most, they can be found in an Aperol Spritz at the bar. In a fireplace lounge-like common area forward in the bow (including an electric fireplace), comfortable reading chairs and a small library invite guests to linger. I imagine this cozy feeling of warmth to be a favorite spot especially when traveling in the winter months.

“Coastal Kitchen” on board

Culinary arts are writ large aboard the Havila fleet, breathing social media-worthy life into it with the term “Havila Food Stories.” Both the main Havrand restaurant and Hildring Fine Dining (for an additional charge) offer delicious Norwegian dishes made with ingredients from local producers. Here, part of the menu changes depending on which of the four coastlines you’re on. From north to south, Arctic, Polar Land, fjords followed by the archipelago are represented on the menu with corresponding local specialties. For guests with the Havila Gold premium package, there are also delicious additional dishes.

The special feature of the food concept is that small Norwegian tapas portions are served exclusively to order at the seat by very friendly staff. The number is freely selectable. Thus, due to the great variety of dishes, I feast on the regional cuisine of Norway, also called Coastal Kitchen. Delicious and sustainable at the same time, because with this concept Havila Voyages was able to reduce food waste to 71g per person per day. The shipping company is thus clearly positioning itself against food waste (saving over 60 tons per year) as part of its sustainability strategy.

For those who want to step it up a notch in terms of taste as well as artful presentation, Hildring Fine Dining’s five-course signature menu celebrates the appropriate Norwegian delicacies on the plate.

As is well known, the price level in Norway for food, drinks and groceries is very high. To have no price worries for the trip, use the fixed-rate beverage packages. The special thing about Havila Voyages, they offer beverage packages with and without alcohol according to units (30, 50 or 70).

And what about the environmental friendliness of the Havila Castor?

At the heart of the ship are two state-of-the-art engines that run on LNG as standard or battery power as an alternative. The particularly energy-efficient hull design together with the two modern Azipod propulsion nacelles result in current operations in reducing CO2 emissions by 35-40% and local emissions such as NOx and SOx by over 90%, compared to similar vessels using conventional fossil fuels (according to the shipping company). From the engine control room, not only the engines and propulsion systems, but also all power consumption on the ship is controlled and readjusted if necessary. At least two technicians always have an eye on the various monitors and display panels 24/7.

Emission-free and noiseless to the Geirangerfjord

Havila Kystruten CEO Bent Martini is particularly proud of the fact: “in 2022, we became the first cruise company in the world to enter the Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, emission-free and noiseless, four years ahead of the government’s requirement for emission-free ferries and ships in World Heritage areas.” How is this possible? The Havila Castor, like its sister ships, has the world’s largest battery storage system of coastal vessels on board as part of its hybrid propulsion system, with 6,102 kWh. This enables emission-free and silent cruising for up to four hours.

I was able to experience this myself while entering the Trollfjord. The only thing I could hear was the murmuring of guests on the observation deck at the bow and a soft singing of a Norwegian choir on board. The steeply towering cliffs were almost within reach. With a majestic 180-degree turn in the fjord, Captain Truls sets course again for the next port, Svolvær.

While the ships are moored ashore, shore power generated from hydropower is used in the larger harbors with longer mooring times. Heat is generated from cooling water and the power system. Drinking water is produced almost exclusively on board. Garbage is strictly separated and the waste collected is used in state-of-the-art waste disposal systems to generate energy. In addition, guests are made aware of environmental protection in the form of an “Eco-Traveler Campaign” in the cabins. By means of a door sign, guests themselves choose whether or not cabin cleaning is required during the day in order to further conserve resources. The overall package of efforts by Havila Voyages was recently rewarded with 1st place (together with Hurtigruten AS) in the cruise ranking in terms of climate and environmental protection by the German Society for Nature Conservation.

Cabins

My cabin is at the stern and is designated as a Seaview Superior Double. It is huge and equally stylishly furnished. Two large rectangular windows give views of the wake and fjord panorama. Beds in the Norwegian standard size, which seems at first rather narrow at 150m width, increases the cuddle factor in winter and in summer one is anyway far outside the normal sleep quota thanks to midnight sun. The equipment includes sufficiently large wardrobes, sofa and desk, TV, minibar, hairdryer, tea and coffee. One looks for a safe against it in vain (only starting from junior suite). The family atmosphere on board seems to make this obsolete. There is one aspect you should pay attention to when entering the bathroom. The step threshold to the inside is unusually high. The shower is very spacious and equipped with a fixed half glass partition. Soon, the previously missing bath mats will be retrofitted.

Saving electricity in Norwegian: Shortly after you leave the cabin, the lights go off in case you forget to turn off the switch yourself. And that without a central power lift where you insert your cabin card.

Cabin types range from inside cabins starting at 10sqm with a high-folding bed, Seaview cabins, Panorama and Deluxe cabins with balconies, to Junior Suites with balconies and two 45sqm, very high-end Lighthouse Suites with Jacuzzi on the balcony.

Onboard life

Who plays the leading role on this mail ship route? That’s right, the breathtaking Norwegian landscape. That’s why the public areas are equipped with floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows throughout. So the coast is always in view, whether you’re making yourself comfortable in a lounge chair or just passing by. The same applies to the restaurants, where the views of the stylishly arranged dishes compete with the coastal panorama, but thanks to floor-to-ceiling window fronts you won’t miss the sudden appearance of a humpback whale. The Havblikk Bar & Lounge is ideal for stargazing while sipping a cocktail. The glass roof of this observation lounge offers a view of the starry sky or even the northern lights. So sit back, enjoy atmospheric lounge music and the “nature” cinema.

Expedition feeling spreads at the bow viewpoint on deck 6. I spent a lot of time there during this short trip. Very close to the sea and, especially during the 180 degree turn in the Trollfjord, also very close to the steep rock faces. I asked fellow passengers about their favorite place on board and got many different answers: No wonder, the Havila Castor makes it difficult even for me to name only one favorite area. Certainly the “captain’s view” on deck 9 in the outdoor area in front of the Havblikk Lounge is one of them.

On board, there are two saunas with changing rooms accessible from the outside deck, two whirlpools and two fitness rooms. I didn’t miss this even in June: Midnight Sun at 01:00 in the morning with a glass of champagne in the whirlpool. At this time, the outdoor bar Havbris is no longer in service, but during the day they serve cocktails, or hot drinks, depending on the season.

Especially handy: there’s a small self-service laundry on board with several washers, dryers and irons.

Short stops and exciting excursions

On a complete round trip, a total of 34 ports are called at during the 12 days. These include small towns with a few hundred inhabitants, with only short supply stops of a few minutes, as well as cities with stops of several hours.

Havila Voyages offers an exciting excursion program every day in selected ports with longer layovers. Whether eagle safari, the visit of the Nidaros Cathedral, the North Cape or trips by RIP boats, as well as in winter by dog or reindeer sled. A special highlight I could experience even in Kirkenes, the tender sweet meat of the self-caught king crabs in a rustic wooden hut to taste. Always with it an enriching knowledge transfer to nature, geography or way of life of the observed animal world. Be it directly during the excursion or during the lectures on board as preparation for the excursion program.

The guests exude very international flair on the postal ship. Passengers came from as far away as Australia on my trip. The international audience is taken into account with the three board languages Norwegian, English and German.

My conclusion:

The Havila Castor fascinates me as a small, very modern ship, that also sets standards in terms of low-emission propulsion technologies. The focus of the concept on sustainability could not be more appropriate for this probably most beautiful sea voyage in the world, with countless nature experiences. Already in a short time the Norwegian coastal cuisine wins me as a fan, with delicious dishes, very attractive presentation and charming service.

Immediately after returning home I make the decision, that I want to experience this ship concept on the entire route and hopefully see my first aurora borealis. “Off to the Norwegian coast to hunt for the northern lights”, I hope that´s my motto for the upcoming winter season. That sounds like adventure, braving the forces of nature on the coast in freezing cold, searching for the light on the longest nights north of the Arctic Circle, dog sledding through the wintry landscape….

Fittingly, Havila Voyages offers a “Northern Lights Promise” to go with it: Who gets from 1st of October to 31st March no northern lights on your complete round trip to see, receives free of charge another cruise. (At a later time as partial route with 6 or 7 days direction north or south in an inside cabin including all meals.)

Don’t miss more updates, news and reviews of Havila Voyages on Cruising Journal!

Josef Eisenberger

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