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March 13, 2022

The story of a cruise aboard Ms Maud, of the Hurtigruten fleet, in the splendid setting of the Norwegian fjords. 

My Cruise number 56

26th January to 9^th February 2022

Cabin number: 646 –  Mid ship , Deck  -6 :  Artic Superior Outside Cabin
Total pax : 150 , Crew : 120  : Decks : 9

Cruise for 14 nights – see map.

Proposed route booked:

Dover – at Sea –  Stavanger – Alesund – Bronnoysund –Reine – Tromso – Honningsvag (North Cape)–Finnsnes – At Sea – Kristiansund – Bergen – at Sea – Dover .

Actual route taken due to major storms:

Dover – at sea – at sea – Alesund – at sea – at sea – Tromso – Honningsvag (North Cape) – Finnsnes – Trondheim – at sea – Bergen – at sea – Dover.

Arrival at the Port of Dover was Covid controlled, Parked and directed to drop off luggage then moved to a Covid PCR testing suite and into a waiting lounge. Unlike other cruise lines you had to pay for your test which never sat well with the majority of passengers. The one and half hour wait for the result including a snack parcel helped bide the time. However, if you tested positive you never got to board and where shuttled out.

Our Artic Superior Outside Cabin, what can I say but, in need of refurbishment soon. It resembles a 1970s passenger train compartment however on the plus side plenty of cupboard space and a refitted new shower in a bathroom which needs a update. A single window gave you a glimpse of the day light.  Our wonderful cabin attendant Eric from Philippines could not do enough for us keeping the cabin spotless and to a very high standard.  The corridors and passenger spaces where always clean, neat and tidy.

The main dining room, Aune was a welcome treat, revamped and our table staff, Reynan and Ann Theresa, both from the Philippines made every time we sat down a wonderful 1^st class experience. The menus daily well-structured balanced and Highly commended.

We did miss a few lunches and instead ate at the Fredheim restaurant. With a variety on the menu from 11am to 9pm and the most amazing milk shakes and waffles. Our table was always handled by the very attentive Jaymilee from the Philippines. (even to go as far as to arrange cabin service for those dreadful storm days with 120mph winds 10m waves in the north sea )

The excursions under the Covid protocol even after testing every 2^nd day where well managed and varied.  Masks on indoors and off outdoors well it was at some points minus 20. This leads me to the selling point of a Hurtigruten Expedition as it is known. This is generally not for the average cruise passenger. Be prepared in wardrobe, physically and mentally for the difference. The excursions are included in all stops if you on the set route out or having to alter as in our case every other day due to weather.  If your bucket list includes like mine did visiting North Cape, ( very few cruises do it) seeing the Northern lights and experiencing once in a life time events then do it but always keep in mind it’s a expedition.

Now for the on board entertainment or total lack of it, not even a lounge musician for the piano that is placed in a very attractive venue with a bar. There is a lot to keep you occupied including listening to traditional stories and lectures from the well-educated and competent expedition team. The science centre is great for those odd lectures that peak your interest. The top deck heli pad  explanations of fjords, wildlife and of course the northern lights are perfect and well timed and presented with great enthusiasm.

The crossing of the arctic circle and anointment ceremony of all on-board ( certificate given) , is great and many more full passengers events are wanted.  There is definitely room for improvement on the evening schedule post dinner.

With this style of expedition cruising be prepared for the unexpected as I explained cruising the North Sea and Norwegian Sea in mid-winter is not for the faint hearted and the odd day or two or three will be spent in your cabin (A cork in a washing machine springs to mind) But to reach the fjords and experience the Northern lights on 4 different evenings well up in the arctic circle is an emotional and very real experience. To visit areas that not many get to even in this day and age makes it all worth the while.

A vast variety of excursions are laid on  day to day with a mix of bus tours , walking tours, Hikes , snow mobiles, cross country skiing, dog sledging and kayaking  to name a few.
You can do as many as you want as long as you plan correctly.

The Captain and crew will always put safety first hence all the alterations to the route taken and due to keeping a covid free cruise those contracting the virus where disembarked along the way. Along with sadly a passenger passing away a lot fewer passengers returned to Dover

Overall a very good product, which delivers the expedition experience totally. 2022 star rating – 4

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Craig Stembridge

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